After a geothermal system has been installed for several months to a year, the grass from the drilling will have grown back a person could walk over the loop field and not even know that it exists. This is ironic considering how important of a part it plays in the geothermal system. It is the loop field that connects the geothermal heat pump to the ground and makes it the most efficient heating and cooling system available.

Many people often ask how deep the wells need to be dug for geothermal systems. The answer to this question is always, “It depends.” The reason it depends is because there are many different factors involved in the sizing of the geothermal loops, and many different designs as well. I have been to geothermal installations where the loops ranged from only six feet underground, to the 1,600 foot geothermal wells at the Peace Center in Philadelphia.

The real factor involved in how the geothermal wells are placed and the design that is chosen is driven by cost, the amount of space available, and the size needed to heat and cool a building. When there is a large amount of space available and cost is a consideration, horizontal geothermal loops may be chosen that range from six to twenty feet underground. Other than placing coils of loops in a body of water, this can be the most cost effective way to place geothermal loops. In the example of the Peace Center in Philadelphia, a large skyscraper needed to be supported by geothermal wells in a very limited space. This is where the 1,600 foot wells come in with a unique design known as standing water column.

With considerations regarding cost, the amount of space available, and the size of the system that is needed to heat and cool a building, a geothermal contractor or engineer will custom design a geothermal loop field. It is important to note that you should check to ensure that your geothermal contractor has been through a formal geothermal design or loop certification program such as IGSHPA (International Ground Source Heat Pump Association) or a certification offered through a geothermal manufacturer. For more information about the different geothermal loop designs available, feel free to refer to the Outdoor Portion section under Geothermal 101 on this site.

As seen on Geothermal Genius

When selecting a geothermal contractor it is important to go through their proposal and sales process.  Be wary of contractors who use geothermal systems as a way to make other, less efficient, non-geothermal heating and cooling systems seem cheaper.  If a contractor offers geothermal but pushes you towards a high efficiency fossil fuel system, he may not have your best interests in mind.  Did the contractor go into the attic or crawlspace to inspect your ductwork?  Did they take the time to explain to you the effects that the drilling rig will have on your landscaping until the grass grows back?  While this is not always the case, many times the amount of effort that a contractor takes before a job will be a direct reflection of the care they take in actually performing the job.

In addition to ensuring they put time and effort into the proposal, you will also want to make sure that your geothermal contractor puts time and effort into providing you with the proper system sizing.  In order to properly size the geothermal equipment and loops, they have will have to perform a Heatload Calculation, also known as Manual J Calculation for a residence, in order to come up with the heating and cooling load needed for a home.  There are many different factors that go into this calculation such as the size of rooms, size of windows, orientation of the home, insulation values for the home, type and color of shingles, etc.  While some contractors may not perform a Heatload Calculation until a contract is signed or an upfront fee is paid, all quality contractors should perform this calculation before installing the equipment to ensure that the equipment and ground loop are properly sized.

Working with a geothermal contractor who has many years of experience and a driller who is familiar with the local terrain can give you a head start in feeling confident that you have chosen the right contractor.  To ensure they have a good reputation in the industry, look into their profile with the Better Business Bureau and check out online reviews for the company.  While asking for referrals or to speak with a company’s previous customer can be helpful, most often contractors will only provide you with a customer that they know will give them a rave review.  In addition to finding out how much experience a contractor has, you should also ask them about their certifications.  An important certification in the geothermal industry to look for is IGSHPA (International Ground Source Heat Pump) certification and an important certification in the over-all heating and air conditioning industry is NATE (North American Technician Excellence).

Choosing the right geothermal contractor can be a daunting task.  Do not let the fear or uncertainty stop you from making a great decision to purchase the most efficient heating and cooling system available.  Spend time with potential contractors going over the details of their proposals, ensure they are performing proper Heatload Calculations, and look into their experience and certifications.  Use this time to learn more about geothermal heating and cooling systems and choose the contractor that is right for you!

As seen on Geothermal Genius

Source: www.gagnongeothermal.com

Which type of heating system is the easiest to retrofit?

The easiest type of system to retrofit is a hydro-air heating system because its operation is not that different from that of a ground source heat pump. With a hydro-air heating system, a boiler heats air which is then distributed through the house via ductwork. If you replace the boiler with the geothermal heat pump for the primary heat source, the rest of the system only needs minimal adjustment. In some cases, the hydro-air system is left in place to serve as an auxiliary heat source.

Which type of heating systems are the most difficult/expensive to retrofit?

The most difficult systems to retrofit are older houses with baseboard heating and no central air conditioning. These systems have no ducts to distribute the air from the ground source heat pump, and you will need to have ducts installed for the new system. Radiant floor geothermal systems are very expensive, so it is not a recommended retrofit for residential homes.

Will the underground loops affect my landscaping?

Installing pipes underground will obviously involve digging up at least part of your yard, but horizontal loops only need trenches of about 6 inches wide. Vertical loops require even less space and will not cause very much damage to your lawn. In the long term, geothermal systems do not cause any problems with trees, grass, or other plants. After your grass recovers from the initial installation, you should notice no differences in your yard.

How much can I save with a geothermal system?

How much you will save replacing your current system with a geothermal system varies on how much you are currently spending on heating your house and how large a system you need to heat your home. There are many great tools available to help you, such as the Ball Park Investment Calculator, which will help you calculate how much a new system will cost and how long it will take to pay for itself. If you pay off your geothermal system over time instead of with a lump sum, the monthly cost will be less than your current fuel expenditure. Remember, geothermal heat is renewable!

What should I do to get my house ready for a geothermal retrofit?

Having a geothermal heat pump that has the capacity to both heat and cool your home is very important, and one of the things that factors into that calculation is how energy efficient your house is. You will want to make sure your house has enough insulation and ENERGY STAR rated windows and doors. Seal up any air leaks you find and you might even want to have a professional energy audit performed on your house. The more energy efficient your house, the smaller of a heat pump you will need, so it is an important first step before beginning the retrofitting process.

No matter what system you currently have in place, a geothermal heating and cooling system is a great way to make your home more environmentally friendly. Be sure to talk to a professional HVAC contractor to find out if a geothermal retrofit is the right option for you.

This information is courtesy of RineAir Heating & Air Conditioning, a Cincinnati heating and air conditioning contractor. Please visit their blog to learn more about green heating and cooling.  It can also be found at Geothermal Genius

Get in touch with Green Air today for an efficiency check up, or service & repair on your Heat Pump, Boiler, or Furnace.

This is off topic for Green Air, but it was great to see some of these old block prints by Charles W. Smith on the Church Hill People News Website.  Click the link and check it out.

http://chpn.net/news/2011/07/06/the-block-prints-of-charles-w-smith_18468/

The Right Setting

Typical air-conditioning settings for a programmable thermostat at different times of day:

• 6 a.m. to 9 a.m. = 75 degrees
• 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. = 80 degrees
• 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. = 75 degrees
• 11 p.m. to 6 a.m. = 80 degrees

1) Set the Dial Higher

If you have central air, set your thermostat above 78 degrees (all temperatures cited here are in degrees Fahrenheit). You’ll save 5 to 8 percent on cooling costs with each degree above that mark. For a typical household, setting the thermostat at 80 degrees saves 10 to 15 percent; raising it to 85 degrees will save 35 to 55 percent.

When you leave home for more than one hour, set the thermostat to 85 or 90 degrees. Reset it upon your return, and the room will cool down in only 15 minutes. The system will use less energy during the cool-down period than if you had left it running at a lower setting while you were out.

Cost: $0
Benefit: 15 to 20 percent or more off your cooling bill

2) Use a Fan

A fan, which costs two to five cents per hour to operate, will make a room feel 4 to 6 degrees cooler. Also, a fan works well in tandem with an air conditioner because the dehumidifying action of the air conditioner provides drier air that the fan can then move around.

In frequently used rooms, install a ceiling fan (set it to spin counterclockwise in summer). You’ll save the most money by running the fan only when you’re in the room. A motion-detector switch (around $20), which turns the fan on when you enter a room and off when the room is empty, is a good addition. However, if you have pets that move in and out of the room, make sure the switch can be turned off manually. Otherwise, your pets can cause the fan to run while you’re away.

If nighttime temperatures drop into the 70s where you live, you might want to purchase a whole-house fan, which runs $300 to $600 installed. This type of unit goes in an upstairs ceiling, ideally in a central hall. When run at night with the windows open, the fan will pull cool air into the house as it vents hot air out through the attic. Most models are designed to slip in between joists for easy installation. Whole-house fans, which draw only as much power as a couple of lightbulbs, are usually outfitted with a variable-speed switch and/or timer. If you install one, be sure to get an insulated box to cover the portal in winter.

Cost: Ceiling fans range from $30 to $200. Floor fans cost around $20, and whole-house fans run from $300 to $600.
Benefit: Ceiling fans can decrease your cooling bill by up to 15 percent, while a whole-house fan can slash it by 50 percent.

How to Install a Ceiling Fan

3) Practice “Texas Cool”

“Texas cool” is a morning and evening routine that takes advantage of cool outdoor temperatures at night and keeps the heat at bay as much as possible during daylight hours. It’s very simple to do: At night when the temperature drops, open windows and bring in cool air with window fans or a whole-house fan. As soon as the sun comes up or the air starts to heat up, shut the windows and shades and keep doors closed.

Cost: $0 (plus minimal fan use)
Benefit: 20 to 50 percent off your cooling bill

4) Use Sunblockers

As much as 20 percent of summer heat enters your home as sunlight shining through windows. To cut “solar gain,” add curtains or blinds to rooms that get direct sun and draw them in daylight hours. With the shades drawn, a well-insulated house will gain only 1 degree per hour when outdoor temperatures are above 85 degrees.

Pay special attention to west-facing rooms late in the day. Shades and blinds to consider include roller shades (the least expensive option), venetian-type micro-blinds, reflective curtains and insulated curtains (the most expensive, at $100 per window). Two exterior options are to install awnings or plant shade trees.

Cost: $8 to $100 per window
Benefit: Up to 20 percent off your cooling bill

How to Install Window Shades

5) Install a Programmable Thermostat

A programmable thermostat lets you preset temperatures for different times of the day, so air-conditioning is working only when you are home. The least-expensive thermostat models ($30) let you set four cycles that, unless manually overridden, repeat every day. Higher-priced models ($50 and up) allow you to create settings for each weekday and for each weekend day.

These thermostats come with complete directions and are easy to install. Just remove the old thermostat, unscrewing the wire leads attached to the terminals on the back. Reattach those wires to the terminals on the new model (in a system with separate A/C and heating units there may be four leads on the back, two for each unit). AA batteries maintain the settings if the power ever goes off.

Cost: $30 to $50
Benefit: Up to 20 percent off your cooling bill

How to Install a Programmable Thermostat

6) Cook Smart

Any appliance that generates heat adds to your cooling load. An oven baking cookies can easily raise the room temperature 10 degrees, which in turn jacks up overall cooling costs 2 to 5 percent. Save cooking (especially baking) for cooler hours, or cook outdoors on your grill. It is also a good idea to run the dishwasher and clothes dryer at night.

Cost: $0
Benefit: 2 to 5 percent off your cooling costs

7) Get Cooler Lights

Incandescent bulbs don’t contribute as much heat as unshaded windows, but they do add heat to a house and can raise the perceived temperature, sending you to the thermostat to seek relief. To reduce this hot-light effect and save lighting costs year-round, replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents. They use about 75 percent less energy and emit 90 percent less heat.

Cost: $12 to $25 per bulb
Benefit: Up to 5 percent off your cooling bill plus electricity savings

Energy-Efficient Bulbs

Snug Up the Ducts

Leaky ducts can cut into air-conditioning efficiency. Ductwork must be balanced between the supply and return sides of the system in order for it to work safely and efficiently, so making a repair in one section can cause a problem in another. Leak-prone areas include the return plenum; where branch ducts meet the trunk line; and where ducts attach to outlets. Also, insulate ducts that run through a hot attic with a blanket of R-11 fiberglass insulation.

Unless the duct repairs are minor, it’s wise to leave them to a HVAC pro. While the contractor is on site checking your ducts, have them tune up the air-conditioning unit by cleaning filters, unplugging coils, unblocking drains and lubing the fan.

Cost: $75 to start for a service call
Benefit: Up to 40 percent off your cooling bill

9) Seal Air Leaks

The places where cold air infiltrates in winter are routes for hot air in summer. And what’s worse, hot air is often accompanied by high humidity, making you even more uncomfortable. Armed with a flashlight, exterior-rated silicone caulk and a couple cans of expanding foam insulation, hunt down and seal all leaks. Concentrate on the attic, basement and crawl space; pay close attention to anything that passes through a ceiling or wall, such as ductwork, electrical or plumbing conduits and kitchen and bath vents. Other common leaky spots are around windows and doors. If you can rattle a window, it’s leaking. Seal it with weather stripping.

Cost: $6 to $25
Benefit: Up to 10 percent off your cooling bill

10) Defeat Attic Heat

The temperature in your attic can reach 150 degrees on a hot summer day, a situation that if left unchecked can drive up cooling costs by as much as 40 percent. If your attic has less than R-22 insulation—7 inches of fiberglass or rock wool, or 6 inches of cellulose—you should add more. (The U.S. Department of Energy says most homes should have between R-22 and R-49 insulation in the attic. To check what’s right for your region, go to the Department of Energy website.)

Before insulating, seal around recessed lights, vents, and plumbing and lay down a 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier. When insulating, place boards across the tops of the joists to walk on, and as you insulate, don’t cover or pack insulation around a bare stove pipe, electrical fixtures, or any other equipment that produces heat, unless the fixture is labeled as suitable for direct contact with insulation. Otherwise you risk fire.

Also make sure your attic is ventilated. Gable vents (around $25 each, plus $75 per vent for labor) can lower attic temperatures about 10 degrees; a ridge-and-soffit ventilation system (an extra $200 during reroofing) will reduce attic temperature to around 100 degrees.

When reroofing, use white or pale-gray shingles instead of dark ones. These keep the attic cooler than dark shingles.

Cost: approximately $25 each for gable-end vents; around $200 for ridge-and-soffit ventilation in a new roof
Benefit: Longer shingle life, and up to 20 percent off your cooling bill

Installing a Solar Attic Fan

For original article titled “10 Ways to Beat the Heat” by David Dobbs via the U.S. Green Building Council’s Green Home Guide, please click here.   It was also reposted on the Green And Save site.

I love seeing all these videos online from Dominion, especially something this local, showcasing Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden along with the power company!  Get ready for fall!